Sacai Men’s Fall 2022 Collection

Chitose Abe’s collaborator this season is Madsaki, the New York-based Japanese-born artist whose favorite medium is spray paint. The fronts of sweatshirts and the backs of jackets from Abe’s new collection are tagged via printing and embroidery techniques with his provocative “Sheeple Zombies and Kool-Aid.” Madsaki’s words seem related, at least tangentially, to what Abe talked about on Zoom from Tokyo.

“I’m ready to take the next step, to dig deeper into the pure essence of Sacai, which is really about assertiveness and self-belief,” she said. “If I have that self-confidence and self-confidence, the wearer will have it too.” For Abe, digging deeper meant looking back at her early Sacai collections, when exposed lingerie was one of her earliest brand tropes. Here, however, she incorporated lingerie directly into her tailoring. The fronts of the jackets are sewn with bra cups and the backs are gathered to the bra line, but these aren’t just decorative touches; bra detailing gives the jackets the distinctive peplum shape that is a hallmark of Abe’s designs. She’s also teamed up with leather specialists Schott on moto jackets that echo the curvaceous silhouettes of her tailoring. The men’s offering also had prodigious volumes, only without the lingerie elements.

Abe is ultra process-oriented, and her intricate hybridizations produce unique results. Other designers follow his example, but his dynamism seems entirely internal. She can’t wait to return to the Paris catwalk for the women’s fall 2022 collections in a month, if the Covid regulations allow it. This season, she got her message across via a video in which a team of youngsters take turns on the roof of a DeLorean. The highway was also tagged by Madsaki – no sheep in Sacai’s circle.

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