Tod’s Pre-Fall 2022 Collection | Vogue
The backdrop for the images in Tod’s pre-fall lookbook are Modernist buildings near Walter Chiapponi’s Milan apartment, where he walks with his Weimaraner Cleonice, which has a cameo role in the photos. “Familiarity and closeness is what I feel,” Chiapponi said during a meeting in a showroom. “I know, it’s kind of a contradiction, because it goes against the idea of freedom and individuality that is so important today.”
Understanding what it takes to heighten a brand’s fashion appeal is easy for someone with Chiapponi’s credentials; with visits to Givenchy, Gucci and Valentino, he knows how high-end fashion works. At Tod’s, his task is to update the range of traditional Italian casual wear with what he calls “a dirtier, more modern version of the bon ton”, giving the collections a certain edge and a thrill of novelty without disrupting their core of bourgeois decorum.
Drawing on the skills of Tod’s artisans, with whom he says he enjoys working in the workshop, Chiapponi has broadened his vocabulary. “We play together spontaneously enough to mix and match disparate elements, we call it the Frankenstein technique,” he joked. For the pre-autumn, their experiments gave leather gommino patches (replicas of the actual soles of Tod’s driving shoes) inserted on the black nappa sleeves of a denim jacket. Elsewhere, the geometric patterns of a kilim rug were toned down for a fringed wool blanket coat, the look completed with matching bags in different sizes and shapes. Another example of Chiapponi’s interesting work on surfaces was a striped woolen coat handcrafted in bright colors, woven into a thick texture that he defined as “brutalist.” For men, the proposals were more traditional, with subtle layering and elegant, relaxed urban classics.
Tod’s commitment to responsible practices is strongly supported by Chiapponi. Beyond the use of certified organic fabrics, it features a new fur texture, lined with an oversized sweatshirt / bomber hybrid. Made with a yarn woven from the upper and softer part of the sheep’s fleece, which is not damaged when shearing, it was extra soft to the touch.